Dress codes worked to cement a social hierarchy by using attire as a sign of status.
着装规范将服装作为地位的象征来巩固社会阶层。
Choices around fashion are always embedded in a social structure in which there are expectations.
围绕时尚的选择总是植根于社会结构，人们对此是有期待的。
And some of those expectations are reasonable and legitimate and some of them are unjust.
有一些期待是合理合法的，有一些则是不公正的。
I teach civil rights and I was surprised how many cases involved dress codes where women would resist for instance rules that require make up or high heeled shoes.
我教授民权课，我惊讶的是很多案例都涉及到女性抵制着装规范，比如说要求化妆或穿高跟鞋的规定。
Dress codes that prohibited hairstyles like braided hairstyles that are typically worn by African American women.
还有禁止编织发型的规定，而它是非裔美国女性的经典发型。
Before this period of time, much of the clothing of elites in particular was draped clothing.
在这段时间之前，精英阶层的服装大多是披挂式服装。
Although it can signify status as well it can only do so in a fairly limited ways.
虽然能够彰显地位，然而程度相当有限。
But when you got tailoring and tailoring began to advance clothing became much more expressive.
但是当人们开始剪裁衣服，随着剪裁方式的进步，衣服变得更加有表现力。
So if you look at someone like Queen Elizabeth for instance with these very elaborate sumptuous gowns.
因此，如果你看看伊丽莎白女王这样的人，就会发现她的礼服非常精致奢华。
But they're also quite constructed so that her body seems to be a different kind of body than the body of the typical person.
这些衣服缝制严密，让她的身体看起来与典型的人体构造不太一样。
It was a way to communicate the authority and the majesty of royalty and aristocrats.
这是一种传达王室和贵族权威和威严的方式。
They wanted to make sure that only people that they authorised to use the symbol of power were able to use it.
他们想确保只有经授权使用这种权力象征的人才能穿它。
And so we started to get a lot of dress codes, sumptuary laws, throughout Europe that regulated clothing according to social rank.
所以大量的着装要求和禁奢法在整个欧洲流行，即根据社会等级来规定服装。
You had a class of merchants and tradespeople who were making a lot of money.
有一些商人和贸易者赚了很多钱。
And those people started to want to use these symbols of status for their own purposes.
这些人开始为了自身目的，想把地位的象征穿在身上。
But even if they had the means, they were prohibited by these laws.
即使他们有办法，这仍旧是被法律禁止的。
Before you would see men in jewels, men in feathers, make-up, powdered wigs, which up to that time had been a symbol of status and power for both men and women.
以前你会看到戴着珠宝、羽毛、化妆品和抹了粉的假发的男人，因为在那个时候，这些是地位和权力的象征，无论对男人还是女人来说。
But during the great masculine renunciation, men began to adopt this much more streamlined, sober style of clothing.
但是在“男性时尚大扬弃”期间，男人开始穿着更具流线型和素雅风格的衣服。
That evolution expresses new egalitarian sentiments that we now associate with the Enlightenment.
这种演变表达了新的平等主义观点，我们现在将其与启蒙运动联系起来。
Social hierarchy gets re-introduced in a much more subtle way, where the way social status is expressed is through savoir-faire, through knowing the right cut, the right fabric.
社会等级制度以一种更微妙的方式被重新引入，社会地位的表达方式是采用得体的设计、恰到好处的剪裁和优质的布料。
Right up until the early 20th century a woman wearing a pair of pants could be in some places subject to arrest.
直到 20 世纪初，在一些地方，穿裤子的女人可能会被逮捕。
We don't really get what we might describe as 'the great feminine renunciation' until the 1920s when the flappers begin to develop this streamlined attire.
直到 20 世纪 20 年代，当时髦女郎开始流行这种流线型服装时，我们才真正看到所说的“女性时尚大扬弃”。
And the flappers, which in today's environmental we often think of as kind of superficial and frivolous, were in fact often working women and they were adopting clothing that was more suitable to not only work but also to new political ideals.
在当今的环境下，人们通常认为时髦女郎们肤浅又轻浮，事实上，她们大多是职业女性，她们穿的服装不仅更适合工作，也更适合新的政治理想。
So this is going out at the same time as the movements for women's suffrage and movements for women's equality from conventional domestic social roles.
同时妇女选举权运动和为了改变妇女传统的家庭社会角色的妇女平权运动也在进行中。
In the 1740s, for instance there were laws in the United States that outlawed or forbade African Americans or slaves from dressing above their condition.
例如，在 18 世纪 40 年代，美国法律禁止非裔美国人或奴隶穿得着超越自身地位的衣服。
And so the well-dressed black person was early on seen as a threat to the social order.
因此，衣着考究的黑人很早就被视为对社会秩序的威胁。
So when you move forward to the civil rights movement in the mid-20th century, the well-dressed African American was a visual and symbolic repudiation of white supremacy.
当你往前看 20 世纪中期的民权运动时，穿着考究的非裔美国人对白人至上观念具有视觉和象征意义的否定。
Dignified dressing was a way of demanding dignity and so that kind of attire was an important part of the civil rights movement.
体面的着装是一种追求尊严的方式，所以这种着装是民权运动的重要组成部分。
Some then dressed in workwear or overalls.
一些人开始穿着工作服或工装裤。
With the Black Panthers for instance it's a new sort of black aesthetic.
以黑豹党为例，这是一种新的黑人审美。
It's an attempt to reject certain of the norms of beauty and professionalism that were advanced by white society in favour of something new.
是一种倾向于新东西的尝试，拒绝白人社会所提倡的特定的美丽范式和专业规范。
The Silicon Valley aesthetic, the grey t-shirt and the hoodie sweatshirt, in one sense this is the logical continuation of the great masculine renunciation.
硅谷审美，灰色 T 恤和连帽运动衫，在某种意义上，是男性时尚大扬弃的逻辑延续。
Some have said: 'Never invest in a tech company where the CEO wears a suit.' So that's not expressing indifference.
有人说过：“永远不要投资拥有穿西装的首席执行官的科技公司。”这并不是在表现冷漠无情。
That's expressing a new kind of a dress code.
而是说明了一种新的着装要求。
The white man in a hoodie sweatshirt is going to be taken for someone working in tech.
穿着连帽运动衫的白人会被认为是在科技行业工作的人。
The black man wearing a hoodie sweatshirt might be taken for a thug or a criminal.
穿着连帽运动衫的黑人可能会被视为暴徒或罪犯。
There is no feminine version of a lot of these new dressed-down types of attire. And these completely casual outfits just don't carry the same symbolic meaning for women.
这些新式休闲服装大多没有女性化的版本，这些非常休闲的服装对女性来说没有同样的象征意义。
Kamala Harris needs to, even more than a white male, exhibit the symbolism of power.
卡马拉·哈里斯比白人男性更需要展示自己权力象征。
Given the difficulties already in conveying that kind of image for a woman and for a woman of colour, it was reasonable for people to object that that dressed-down casual image kind of undermined her authority.
鉴于女性以及有色人种女性传达这种权力形象是困难的，人们有理由反对其穿着便装，因为这种休闲形象会损害她的权威性。
People are looking for something that seems unassuming, that seems kind of natural, but also still communicates status and refinement.
人们在寻找一些看起来谦逊、自然，但仍能表现地位和优雅的穿衣方式。
Another thing you see on Zoom is judgement about not just the clothing because you can only see me from here up now, but the background.
可以在 Zoom 上学到的另一件事是不要只看衣服作出评价，因为你能看到的只是从这以上的我，还有背景。
People work really hard now to stage a bookshelf in the background That kind of judgement is also in a way a form of a dress code except now it's extended to your whole home.
人们现在都努力在背景里摆上一个书架这种想法在某种程度上来说也是一种着装规范，只是这种规范扩展到了整个家。
So we've accomplished a lot, but we're not that different from people in the past.
我们虽然已经取得了很多成就，但其实和过去的人没什么不同。
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