Although chickpeas and beans don’t usually belong in a pudding, they are core ingredients in one of the oldest – and, some say, one of the most delicious – desserts in the world.
虽然人们通常不会往布丁里添加鹰嘴豆和其他豆子，它们却是世界上最具历史之一的甜点的原材料——有些人甚至说这就是最古老的甜点。
It was a cold, drizzly January day in Istanbul and I was searching for inspiration at Goreme, an old-school dessert shop in the Kurtuluş neighbourhood. Renowned for its oven-baked pudding and consistently excellent dairy-based desserts, they also offer what is thought to be the oldest sweet treat known to mankind: ashure.
那是伊斯坦布尔的一个细雨蒙蒙的阴冷一月天，我在Kurtuluş地区一家老式甜品店Goreme内寻找制作灵感。这家店以烘烤的布丁和乳制品甜点而闻名，也能在这里买到被认为是人类已知的历史最悠久的甜点：ashure。
According to Islamic tradition, ashure – which is frequently dubbed “Noah’s Pudding” – was prepared as a celebratory dish by the prophet’s family after surviving the great flood and washing up on Mount Ararat, on the fringes of what is today the north-eastern borderlands of Turkey. Legend has it that this cornucopia of a dessert, which usually includes around a dozen different grains, fruits, nuts and legumes, was concocted by combining whatever ingredients were still left on the Ark.
根据伊斯兰传统，ashure——也常被称为“诺亚的布丁”——是先知的家人在从大洪水中幸存下来后，于现今土耳其东北部边境的阿拉拉特山上准备的一道用来庆祝的餐点。传说，这道甜点包含了几十种不同的谷物、水果、坚果和豆类，当初制作这道甜点用到了方舟上所能找到的一切原材料。
The resulting dish is mildly sweet, rich and savoury with notes of fruit. When prepared hot,ashure takes on a comforting consistency resembling porridge; when served cold it congeals and takes on more of a custard-like texture.
这道甜点味微甘，口感浓郁且带有水果香气。热制时ashure会呈现出一种安逸的粘稠度，就像粥一样；待冷却后，则会呈现出偏奶油冻的质地。
Apart from bearing the lofty distinction as the world’s oldest dessert, ashure retains important spiritual significance today across Anatolia, the lands comprising the majority of modern-day Turkey.
除了享有“世界上最古老的甜点”这一名誉外，ashure在如今整个Anatolia地区，也就是现代土耳其的主要地区，代表了重要的精神意义。
“Ashure means ’10’ in Arabic and refers to the 10th day in the month of Muharram, the first month of the Islamic calendar. The dessert is cooked in homes during that week and distributed to friends, symbolising the spread of love and abundance,” wrote Cemre Torun in an article for Food Magazine, noting that ashure is “perhaps the most symbolic dish in this part of the world”.
“Ashure在阿拉伯语中的意思是‘10’，意指伊斯兰历的第一个月，穆哈拉姆月的第10天。这一周，人们都会在家烹制这道甜点并分发给朋友，象征着爱与富足的传播。”Cemre Torun在一本烹饪杂志中写道，并强调ashure“可能是这片地区最具象征意义的菜肴”。
“This date is of particular importance to Shiite Muslims – and of special significance to Alevis and Bektashis – because it represents the martyrdom of Prophet Mohammed’s grandson Huseyin, an event that ignited the Shiite-Sunni split in Islam,” Torun continued.
“这个日子对于Shiite派穆斯林特别重要——对Alevis和Bektashis派也同样重要，因为它代表了先知穆罕默德的孙子Huseyin的殉难，正是这一事件点燃了Shiite-Sunni派系在伊斯兰教中的分裂。”Torun继续写道。
Torun’s piece explored the culture and culinary habits of her late grandfather, a spiritual leader of the Bektashi faith. Religion and history aside, Torun told me that ashure reflects the broader attributes of Anatolian cooking.
Torun的文章中探讨过她已故祖父的文化和饮食习惯，她的祖父是Bektashi信仰派的一位精神领袖。撇开宗教和历史不谈，Torun告诉我，ashure还反映了Anatolian人烹饪的一些特点。
“The presence of ingredients like chickpeas and beans showcases the importance given to balance and flavours, emphasis on abundance and prosperity, how nutritious the cuisine is in this region, and the importance of the pantry in our kitchens. They are always filled with all kinds of beans, lentils, grains and seeds,” she said.
“鹰嘴豆和豆类食材的存在表明了Anatolian人对于平衡食材和风味的重视，尤其是对于人们富足生活和繁荣社会的体现，这一地区的菜品营养丰富。同时也体现了食品储藏室在我们厨房中的重要性。它们总是装满了各种各样的豆类、谷物和种子。”她说道。
In Turkey and beyond, there are countless varieties and recipes for ashure, owing to the laundry list of ingredients that can be used. Usually vegan, it is chock-full of nutrients and is an ideal winter dessert because it is wholesome and filling.
在土耳其和一些其他地区，ashure演变出了多种多样的配料表。通常来说这些配料都是素食的，且富含营养。Ashure是一道理想的冬季甜点，它不仅营养丰富而且饱腹感强。
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