challenged-Mauro Pesoa x 艺术 | 回归本源

challenge动词_challenge的意思_challenged

Mauro Pesoa

阿根廷设计师

1993年出生于阿根廷

Born in Argentina in 1993

生活和工作在中国台湾

Lives and works in Taiwan, China

曾获得 SlowModa2015 大赛冠军

He won the SlowModa2015 competition

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手工艺从本质上讲是丰富多样的

Craftsmanship is by nature rich and diverse

我们有责任将不同的文化风格融合在一起

It is our responsibility to blend different cultural styles together

创造出既能表达传统工艺

To create products that express traditional craftsmanship

又能符合当今目标市场生活方式的产品

And products that fit the lifestyles of today’s target markets

—Mauro Pesoa

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▲Coleccion Oficio Ancestral 2019

世界上从事柳条种植和工作的国家越来越少。尽管如此，柳条这一元素仍能穿越时空、历久弥新，甚至融入新的领域。虽然柳条是露台或花园装饰的经典材料，但今天它也出现在服装设计中，这要归功于一位阿根廷创意人士 Mauro Pesoa。在他的设计中，除了柳条，他还使用了不含杀虫剂的棉花。一种由椰子纤维制成的亚松森带来的织物。对他来说，时尚的可持续性应该是一项国家政策。

Fewer and fewer countries in the world are engaged in wicker cultivation and work. Despite this, the element of wicker can still travel through time, endure, and even integrate into new fields. While wicker is a classic material for patio or garden decor, today it’s also appearing in clothing designs, thanks to an Argentinian creative named Mauro Pesoa. In his design, in addition to wicker, he also used pesticide-free cotton. A fabric brought by Asuncion made from coconut fiber. For him, sustainability in fashion should be a national policy.

Mauro Pesoa 热爱艺术和本土文化，认为自己是一个负责任、充满活力和创造力的人。自2013年以来，他一直在开发一个同名品牌，这改变了他的生活。他将自己家族的产业，柳条编织与服装结合在一起，这让他能够欣赏到手工艺的价值，并将其转化为自己品牌的标志。他的家族史和生意仍然是他生活的一部分。他挑战自己，将这种材料塑造成新的形式，创造出在现代市场上占有一席之地的当代手工产品。

Lover of art and native cultures, he considers himself a responsible, dynamic and creative person. Since 2013 he has been developing a homonymous brand which has transformed his life. He has combined wickerwork, the trade of his family, with clothing, which has allowed him to appreciate the value of the craft and turned it into the identity of his brand. His family history and trade continue to be a part of his life. He has challenged himself to shape this material into new forms, creating contemporary artisanal products that have a place in the modern market.

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▲Coleccion Oficio Ancestral 2019

几年来，他对自己品牌的可持续发展承诺采取了坚定的立场。他认识到他在未来扮演的角色，并承认自己可以在当下充当变革的角色。他意识到服装行业将继续传承下去，因此，他希望通过不断提高对其影响的认识，确保它将不断改变。

For several years now, he has adopted a firm stance about the sustainable commitment of his brand. He recognizes the role he plays in the future and acknowledges that he can act as an ambassador for change in the present. He is aware of the fact that the clothing industry will continue to be passed down, and as such, wants to make sure that it will be continually transformed through growing consciousness of its impact.

challenge的意思_challenged_challenge动词

▲Coleccion Banado De Estrellas 2013

艺术家访谈

寻找自我

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Q1：这种天然纤维的可追溯性如何？

How traceable is this natural fiber?

Mauro Pesoa：阿根廷的柳条种植由家庭生产者负责。植物生长在湿地，因此不会磨损土壤。到了收获季节，柳条的枝条被砍掉，植物继续生长。这一行业已有数千年的历史，但由于工作非常辛苦，加上人造版本的出现，这一行业已经失传。

Wicker cultivation in Argentina is the responsibility of family producers. Plants grow in wetlands, so they don’t wear down the soil. At harvest time, the wicker branches are cut off and the plants continue to grow. This industry has been around for thousands of years, but it has been lost due to the hard work and the appearance of artificial versions.

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▲Collection ADN 2023

Q2：你对服装的兴趣是从什么时候开始的？

When did your interest in clothing begin?

Mauro Pesoa：我一直都有。我小时候经常撕床单给妹妹做衣服。这些都是背着父亲做的，父亲对我对时尚的兴趣并不看好。他担心我无法谋生。因此我独自去了罗萨里奥，在一所工业学校学习。

I’ve always had it. When I was little, I used to rip sheets to make clothes for my sister. All this was done behind my father’s back, who was not impressed with my interest in fashion. He was worried I wouldn’t be able to make a living. So I went to Rosario on my own to study at an industrial school.

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▲Collection ADN 2023

Q3：你什么时候开始考虑将柳条应用于服装设计？

When did you start thinking about using wicker in clothing design?

Mauro Pesoa：转折点是我回到福尔摩沙后，我母亲让我帮她参加一个展览会。无意中，我们修改了设计，这引起了当地工匠的不安，因为我们卖得更多，而这不是属于本省的工艺。我们不想争吵，决定一起寻找其他途径。

The turning point was when I returned to Formosa and my mother asked me to help her attend an exhibition. Inadvertently, we modified the design, which caused unease among local artisans because we were selling more, and it was not a craft that belonged to the province. We didn’t want to fight and decided to find other ways together.

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▲Collection ADN 2023

Q4：你是如何处理这种与纺织品性质截然不同的材料的？

How do you deal with a material that is so different from textiles?

Mauro Pesoa：柳条纤维在潮湿时具有很好的延展性。第一批服装奠定了品牌形象的基础。这些指导概念产生了一种非常本土化的想象，并与共同的知识相联系。后来，我遇到了其他其他经历过类似过程的设计师，我们都在寻找自己的做事方式。

Wicker fibers are very malleable when wet. The first clothes laid the foundation for the brand’s identity. These guiding concepts generate a very local imagination and are linked to a common knowledge. Later, I met other designers who had gone through a similar process, and we were both finding our own way of doing things.

— COLLECTIONS—

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