编者按:《舌尖上的非遗》(The ULTIMATE Chinese Food Tour)是CGTN新媒体文化频道为庆祝中华人民共和国成立70周年特别策划的九集系列片。主持人Matthew Arrington Watson深入非遗美食的发源地,向非遗传承人学习美食制作技艺,品尝中华美食,做一个快乐的“吃播”。
粤菜的武林,卧虎藏龙,各路美食一较高下。有一道美食在粤菜的江湖中脱颖而出,成为上桌率最高的菜品之一,它就是沙河粉。《舌尖上的非遗》第三站,我们来到广东广州,感受沙河粉的超级人气。
在广州,宵夜大排档的灯光点亮城市的后半夜,一道道冒着烟火气的美食是对劳累了一天的自己心灵与口腹的双重慰藉。然而在母亲大人的眼里,夜宵却意味着令人闻风丧胆的三高:高血脂、高血糖、高血压。
Shahe rice noodles have been around since the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), when they were first served in Guangzhou’s Shahe town at the restaurant of Fan Axiang, who got the recipe from his father.
Fried Shahe rice noodles with beef. /CGTN Photo
既想要美味,又想要健康,本地人会选择什么当作夜宵呢?干炒牛河、原味汤粉、凉拌河粉,食客们嗦着各种各样的沙河粉。Matthew欣喜地发现,“看来沙河粉非常受大家欢迎啊!”
沙河粉源自广州沙河镇,原料仅需大米和水,也只有八道工序,却极其考验技艺。在石磨的研磨下,米和不断加入的水被调和成浓稠度适当的米浆,米浆在竹窝篮里转动而均匀地铺平, 蒸过之后变成晶莹剔透的粉皮。
在沙河粉制作技艺省级传承人区又生的眼里,薄如纸张,透可见字,这样的粉皮才算标准。Matthew也尝试了下做粉皮,结果不仅粉皮中间留下几个穿孔,原本圆弧的边缘也撕扯成锋利的锯齿状。没有对比就没有伤害,Matthew不禁感叹沙河粉制作工艺之高超。
Although the dish has waned in popularity in the past, fifth-generation inheritor Ou Yousheng has helped revive it by using innovative techniques and experimenting with new flavors, all while maintaining the traditions that made Shahe rice noodles an important part of Guangdong cuisine.
Ou showed me the steps inside of Congee City’s exhibition kitchen, which gives customers the chance to see rice noodles made up close and personal.
Inheritor Ou Yousheng (L) shows how to grind rice into rice milk. /CGTN Photo
粉皮爽滑柔韧、米香厚重,切成条后可以用炒、泡、拌等多种方式烹饪,搭配多种食材,一样粉百样吃。然而今天能吃到正宗的沙河粉却来之不易。
传统沙河粉原料采用沙河镇产龙眉大米和附近白云山上的泉水。由于种植面积的减少,以及需求量的增加,沙河粉的传承面临危机。经过无数次的考察和试验,区又生最终选用开平县产的龙眉大米和帽峰山泉水作为替代品,“一路走过来,也是很不容易的,经过了好多的坎坷。”
The noodles were traditionally made using Baiyun Mountain spring water and Longmei rice sourced from fields around Shahe. But due to limited quantities and higher demand, Ou said after much research, Maofeng Mountain spring water and Longmei rice from Kaiping County are now used.
The two ingredients are ground and mixed to produce rice milk, which the inheritor must measure carefully to create a final product that is as durable as it is tasty. The rice milk is spread flat, steamed into a thin rice sheet, folded and sliced into even strips ready to be cooked.
An assortment of Shahe rice noodles. /CGTN Photo
As I witnessed firsthand, Shahe rice noodles are a versatile dish only limited by the creativity of the chef. They can be served in many ways, mixed with different sauces and other ingredients, boiled and fried. And each spin on this classic noodle will keep you coming back for more.
在遵从古法的基础上,沙河粉近年来借鉴西式烹饪方法进行了口味创新,这道古老的小吃焕发出了年轻的生机。五色沙河粉、日式手卷沙河粉、芝士焗粉,丰富的颜色,新奇的做法,Matthew吃完一碗还想吃,你不想来尝一尝吗?
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