Maggie Smith is one of my favorite actresses. I first saw her performance not in Harry Potter or Downton Abbey, but in A Room with a View, a 1985 movie adapted from English writer E.M.Forster’s eponymous novel.
我很喜欢玛吉·史密斯，第一次看她的表演不是通过《哈利波特》，也不是《唐顿庄园》，而是小时候看的那部《看得见风景的房间》。这部拍摄于1985年的电影改编自英国作家爱德华·摩根·福斯特的同名小说。
It was set in the turn of the 20th century, beginning with two English women’s trip in Florence. Maggie Smith portrayed Charlotte who traveled with her young cousin Lucy, performed by Helena Carter (yes, the same actress who portrayed Bellatrix in Harry Potter and Queen Elizabeth in The King’s Speech).
故事发生在20世纪初，两个英国女人相伴来到佛罗伦萨。玛吉·史密斯扮演的夏洛特陪伴表妹露西来意大利旅游。露西的扮演者大家也很熟悉啦，就是《哈利波特》里扮演贝拉、《国王的演讲》里扮演伊丽莎白皇后的海伦娜·卡特。
By the way, the movie also starred Judi Dench,and Daniel Day-Lewis.
顺便说下，这部影片里还有“M女士”朱迪·丹奇和丹尼尔·戴-刘易斯。
▲ 老姐俩组的女爵士CP~
▲ 好年轻的“林肯”
The journey that Lucy and Charlotte took in Italy was at the time a fashion among upper-class women.
夏洛特和露西的意大利“深度游”反映了当时流行于欧洲“白富美”圈的一种时尚。
▲《威尼斯圣保罗广场上的集市》贾科莫·法夫雷托 1884-5
Such a tour that traversed Europe, called the Grand Tour, was considered as part of their education and a way to demonstrate independence.
这是一种被称作“大旅游”的纵贯欧洲的旅行方式，它被上流社会女性视为提升教养的一部分，同时也向外彰显自己的独立。
▲ 走在阿尔卑斯山上的女游客，拍摄于1900年左右
The Grand Tour dated back to the 17th and 18th century. It represented a custom of a long trip undertaken by European men of nobility to travel extensively on the European continent. It was especially popular among the English ruling class.
“大旅游”可以追溯到17至18世纪。当时，这种横跨欧洲大陆的“奢侈型消费方式”在欧洲贵族子弟当中流行开来，尤其受到英国人的欢迎。
They often journeyed with valets, a cook, coachmen and knowledgeable guides.
他们在旅行的时候还会带上贴身男仆、厨子、马车夫和知识渊博的向导。
▲《古罗马广场》西奥多·达利尼 1826
Grand Tour travelers toured not only for pleasure and sightseeing. They were also introduced to the historic and cultural legacies of Western civilization, perfected language skills, and socialized with the high society of the Europe.
“大旅游”的游客不仅仅是为了休闲观光。沿途，他们遍寻记录西方文明演变的历史文化遗产，练习外语，结交欧洲它国的权贵阶层。
People of a humble origin also joined in, if they could find a sponsor.
如此“烧钱”的旅游对于平民子弟来说也并非望尘莫及，但凡他们能找到慷慨的“赞助商”。
Americans partook in this avid tour in the 19th century, as the steamship transportation across the Atlantic Ocean became more accessible.
到了19世纪，蒸汽机船使得人们横跨大西洋更为便利；由此，美国人以同样的狂热加入这趟旅途。
▲《阿尔卑斯山景观》塞缪尔·格里 1851
Artists thrived on the flourish of the Grand Tour.
“大旅游”的热潮也让艺术家受益匪浅。
Wealthy tourists would purchase or commission landscapes and portraits en route, along with books and artifacts. They displayed these works of art after returning home, so that they could showcase the accomplishment and prestige they had received from the tour.
那些来自富裕贵族阶层的旅游者会一路买买买：除了书籍和考古挖掘出的文物，他们还会购买、定制沿途的风景画和记录自己旅行的肖像画。回到家后，他们就会把这些艺术品向亲朋好友进行展示，享受“大旅游”带来的成就感和优越感。
▲《翁弗勒尔》乔治·布朗 1834
You can see some of these paintings on display at Americans Abroad, running at Tsinghua University Art Museum through Sunday.
想看这些曾经被欧洲贵族拿来晒票圈的画作么？就在清华大学艺术博物馆《穿越大洋的艺术》展上。明天闭幕，想看的抓紧时间咯~
A Grand Tour took several months and even years, and Italy was the prime destination. A residence in Venice and Rome were essential.
“大旅游”短则持续数月，长则几年；而意大利是旅行者主要的目的地。并且，在威尼斯和罗马常住几日是“大旅游”的标配。
Travelers would also visit Naples for its picturesque scenery and closeness to several archaeological sites of such as Pompeii, Herculaneum and Paestum.
游客往往还会去南部的那不勒斯“打卡”，因为那里除了有美景，还靠近诸如庞贝、赫库兰尼姆和帕埃斯图姆这些著名的古代遗址。
▲《那不勒斯海岸》哈里森·布朗 1871-3
▲《帕埃斯图姆的夜晚》贾斯珀·克鲁普西 1861
The experiences with art were central to the Grand Tour.
艺术体验可以说是“大旅游”的核心。
Tourists with sufficient funds would visit museums, churches and archaeological locations and collect artworks.
那些“家里有矿”的游客要参观博物馆、教堂和考古遗址，并且收藏艺术品。
Artists journeyed to improve skills by appreciating the works of master painters, and to look for clients and patrons.
艺术家旅行则是为了欣赏大师的画作、精进自己的技艺，同时寻找买家和赞助人。
Some artists accompanied their wealthy patrons on the tour, and sometimes would receive a grant for a study in Rome.
还有些艺术家干脆陪伴那些有钱的赞助人一起旅游，幸运的话他们会因此获得在罗马进修学习的奖金。
▲《戛纳》威廉·哈兹尔廷 1868-9
Tourists could also sketched or paint watercolors themselves. At a time when photo taking required professional training, painting and sketching however allowed people to engage more actively with the landscapes before their eyes.
游客也可以自己画速写或者水彩。摄影术在当时还需要经过专业训练才能掌握，那么画画和素描反而能让人们更深入地去观察、融入眼前的风景。
草长莺飞，带上彩铅和素描本去踏青吧~
Courtesy of Tsinghua University Art Museum
图片致谢清华大学艺术博物馆
Have a nice weekend！
IF YOU GO
9 am-5 pm, closed on Mondays
Tsinghua University, Haidian district
010-62781012
Weekend, Where to go
Lin Qi
自出道起专注特稿写作10余年，担任艺术报道是这两年的事。周一到周五去高大上的博物馆跑活儿，周末在798/草场地/黑桥出没。
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